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    Albuquerque’s best sushi is in Rio Rancho.


    2010 - 06.25

    I recently expressed frustration with poor-quality sushi joints which have infested Albuquerque.  My favorite sushi place in town has been Shogun on Central, but I don’t love it, it was just the best I’d found.

    On a recent date night, Lisa and I decided to have sushi, and I literally Googled “best sushi in Albuquerque.”  All the usual spots were there, like I Love Sushi, Sushi King, or Azuma.  By the way, those are not the best in Albuquerque.  I saw another one nestled in there that I had never heard of: Noda’s.  Billed as “authentic Japanese cuisine,” and up on Southern in Rio Rancho, Urban Spoon and Yelp! are filled with rave reviews, some dating back 10 years.

    We went.  Noda’s quickly became our favorite sushi restaurant yet.  You see, sushi isn’t a kitch thing there, it’s just part of the menu and has been for over a decade.  It’s not a sushi restaurant, it’s a Japanese restaurant.  The sushi was unique and incredibly tasty – there was no Gryffindor Roll, thank goodness.  There was a very limited amount of cream cheese in the rolls, too (I recall seeing only 1 that had it) and almost no tempura-based rolls.

    A unique thing they do was make the sushi rolls, then pile some more fish on the tops.  I tried the “green mustard roll,” and the salmon roll (pictured below) and they had a lot more flavor than I’m used to in sushi.  They were filling without being heavy.

    The rolls were well-built and the service was pleasant.  The fish tasted amazing and they used some wonderful ingredients in the rolls like the sprouts in that salmon roll.  So my current favorite sushi place in Albuquerque?  Noda’s.  Without a doubt.

    How Not to Make Sushi


    2010 - 04.23

    Sushi is a craze. Twenty years ago, it was hard to find and soccer moms didn’t regularly haunt their favorite spots. It was a modern treat, one for big city yuppies who had money to burn on fancy raw fish.

    In the last few decades, things have changed for the worse.  Maybe it was Molly Ringwald chomping the stuff in The Breakfast Club, maybe the word dribbled down to us common folk some other way, but now it’s 2010.  In Albuquerque, there are probably at least 40 restaurants out there serving sushi.  It’s in downtown, sure, but it’s also in the suburbs.  That’s where the problem really takes root.

    You see, sushi is no longer a delicacy, no longer unique, and no longer high-quality.  These days it’s often made by the same class of chefs you can find at Denny’s, which is a problem because sushi was made famous for the skilled chefs who made it, Japanese men who trained for years and strove for absolute perfection.  Legend has it women could not be sushi chefs because of their naturally higher hand temperature.  Outside of the traditions, today’s subushi (suburb-sushi) costs relatively the same as a a good plate of sushi elsewhere.

    Which brings me to tonight’s travesty.  There are many ways to create a bad sushi experience, I observed these tonight:

    • make the rolls too big so that when picked up with chopsticks, they crumble
    • make the rolls so sloppy so that the nori comes detached from itself (see the photo)
    • use less raw fish in the rolls, and more fried/tempura ingredients
    • go buck-wild with the spicy mayo, squirting big globs all over the rolls
    • make a goofy gimmick like a “Gryffindor Roll” (actually saw this on the menu)
    • offer terrible service on top of the less-than-stellar food experience

    Rumor has it, there are gems out there, sushi joints with chefs who’ve trained for decades to make stellar raw fish without gimmicks and with great flavor.  The search continues.